Clambering off the bus at 6am into the cold and dark, we aren't too impressed. Overtired and hungry makes us difficult to please. But the buzz of the local market and the beauty of the surrounding countryside soon start to enchant me. By the time we are floating along the Mekong River, watching the morning mist being burnt off by the sun, I am completely won over.
The cool waters of Kuang Si Falls and the impressive views from Mount Phou Si further my love for this quaint and pretty town. Even the steep steps up to Pak Ou Caves and the burn from drinking Lao Lao Whisky aren't enough to put me off.