India 3 - The Awakening travel blog

Asking for directions at a gas station

Polution - Visability 1km [max]. coming int0 Delhi

Toll both - Motorbikes, water buffalo, bicycles, and all foot traffic are...

The fast Devil

School bus and bull cart

I don't know why all these fuel trucks are parked on the...

Acidic polution. I can feel and taste it

Open road

Load of tractors

Puncture wallas

Service walla - I stopped and had chai with him. It turned...

He calls for chai

A sikh man asking about the GoPro as I position the helmet...

Just BSing. They are asking me where I was.

I need my altlas to show them the route

Pointing out my route

More people interested

More chai

I don't know what this guy wanted. Maybe to piont something out...

Posing for photos

At the end of the Pam Am hwy in North America the...

An English speaking man eplaining things to the crowd

Getting ready to leave

A bus of labourers going to work

The sub-Devil

Police check point. They never stop me

Indian street sweeper

Part of thr fly by has been constructed

The fly by I 'missed'. It took forever to get back on...

A load of feed. I have never seen a bail in India

My first sub sandwich in 3 months. Vegi. Tasted the exact same.

Some ants had a pretty cool trail going on

My friends at the service walla's shop

Some dude with my greasy helmet. I warned him.

The chai stall I stopped at in 2004.

The bangle I bought Mom

The bangle I bought Mom

The bangle I bought Mom

The bangle I bought Mom

The bangle I bought Mom

U-do earring kit. Yes it hurt.

U-do earring kit. Yes it hurt.

My 'Porgies' for Christmas - Veg Momo's

A shot of a saddhu and a drug addict getting beaten/arrested. A...

Saraswati is the hindu goddess of knowledge, music, arts and science. 5'...

The Buddha I bought for Annie. 5' tall

The conch represents life as it has come out of life-giving waters....

Buddha bust. 12" tall

Krishna is the reincarnation of Vishnu. This is the most ornate piece...

Krishna is the reincarnation of Vishnu. This is the most ornate piece...

The bell with the Gaytri Mantra on it.

My next tattoo - The Gayatri Mantra. I am not to sure...

Jetting direction from Manish

Final directions

Geting ready to go

On my way out of karol Bagh



HHhhhmmmm. Which way?

Directions - no English

Punjabi men always know the way

Tight traffic

Riot police



I hit this guys mirror and am adjustuing it

The rape protest

The rape protest

Even the older men are protesting

The rape protest

Men speaking to men and TV cameras

The speaker

The rape protest

The rape protest

The rape protest

Very angry

The rape protest

The rape protest

Cara got one of these posters


December 22, 2012

Still no signs of Christmas. It’s great!!

I am in Delhi. I arrived yesterday around 2 or 3pm. I found my way to Koral Bagh no problem. I had to ask a few people. I am staying at the same place.

I met Manish within minutes. He’s my best friend in India. Great guy. We had chai and talked about the trip. Cara and I are going to his place for dinner. He lives with his Mom.

It’s midnight. I laid around most of the day. After, I got up and walked around the market. I found the place where I ate at in 2004. I got sick eating here. The only time I got sick in 2004. It’s an upstairs joint. Non-veg. I would eat there again if I wasn’t veg. I broke down this morning and had an egg. Not good. I hope it doesn’t bring me bad luck.

Rebecca’s birthday today. Don’t forget next year ha ha ha.

Let’s see what else….

Oh, I was about three blocks away and some stall owner knew me because of Suukye. Everyone in the neighbourhood knows us. I have a love/hate relationship with this town.

Tomorrow: I buy a couple of statues for both me and Annie, go to the bike shop and go to BMW. I need someone to install the new fork springs that Cara is bringing me.

My saddle bags are shit!!!!!! Every time I drop her the bags bend closer and closer to her body. I can no longer open the rear gas cap. I fixed it in some shit hole town. It was the town I stayed after I dropped the bike, got pain meds and puked. I forget the name. It WAS fixed. Now its fucked again and I didn’t even drop it. I am going to have to take everything apart and have a real good look at it. Maybe right after a really hot shower so my brain will be warm and working. I just can’t stop anywhere and do this, too many visitors. I'll have to do it in the middle of nowhere.

The hotel I stayed at in between Shimla and Delhi was an expensive shit hole. Rs.500 [about USD$10]. The restaurant had little cockroaches running around. I had palak paneer and a couple of roti. The bed had little cockroach wings on it. What a dump.

Speaking of dumps – there was a little chai stall that I stopped at in 2004 just outside of Delhi. It’s next to the city dump. Only a few flies. On my way into Delhi from Shimla I recognized it and stopped for another chai. Took pictures.

I was reading some of my South American journal last night. Good stuff.

Oie, I have a nasty zit inside my right nostril.

December 27, 2012

For Christmas I did nothing. Actually, I got wacked on Valium and had a great sleep.

On my way into Delhi from Pinjory I got lost getting to Karol Bagh. With 15mm people, go figure. I was told that Delhi encompasses 100 square miles.

A guy on a moped helped me out. His name is Girish. His profession is the restoration of old bikes, namely Norton, Triumph and BSA’s. There are a lot of them kicking around India because after partition the British just left everything behind. We stopped and chatted for awhile. He had a business card. But I dunno. He can sell me an old Vespa in candy apple red for Rs.80,000. USD$1450.00. I think they are about twice that in Canada. He also imports ginsing from Nagaland. His wife is from there and a Christian!

What I really want is an old Matchless. I forget the name of the guy but he was the first overlander. He rode a Matchless. I think it was in the 20’s he drove from England to Singapore, solo. I believe it was the first overland trip by bike. I have his book.

There is so much to write I am trying to remember.

Two days ago I drove to Deutsche Motoren to have Suukye’s oil and filter changed. I can do it but what do I do with the used oil??

I guy I met there was the Manager of the Motorrad division. He tells me that the division has been only open three months. I ask to meet the service walla because Cara is bringing custom fork springs for me and I am going to have them changed out. I have Ohlins cartridges in the forks so I want to make sure that this walla knows what he’s doing. I asked him where he got his training to work on BMW bikes. He has none. Shit hole. Just a regular service walla. Liza can change the oil and filter so that’s not a problem. The problem lay with the forks. They are BMW fork legs but the innards are Ohlins. All racing stuff. But the springs Ohlins gave me don’t have enough pre-load. I had Geoff [GPMoto] order a set of custom springs to increase the pre-load. In reading the instructions I think Lucy could do this job. However the top caps on the BMW fork legs are very very thin. It requires a special BMW tool to open the forks. This tool is probably $100. I am not going to buy a $100 tool so I can use it three or four times during the life of the bike. I asked and Deutsche Motoren has this tool. I think I am going to oversee the operation.

A week ago a young girl was gang raped by six men on a bus for two hours. On top of that they stuck a metal rod in her and really fucked her up. Then they tossed her out of the bus on the road. She had a male friend but they beat him so badly he drifted in and out of continuousness the entire time. They had to remove part of the girl’s lower intestine. She comes from a lower middle class family who sold their ancestral land to pay for her education. The city wants blood and lots of it. There have been three days of rioting downtown at the India gate and parliament. Currently there is no capital punishment for rapists but I read that the government is fast tracking death for special rape cases. I think they hang people in India. Hangin’ to good for these sons a bitches. I read today that she has been flown to Singapore for treatment. She is close to death. Her insides are all fucked up. She’s 23.

Because of the rioting there are riot cops everywhere. Half the metro is shut down. It’s just not students protesting. I saw men I suits and ties also. India is going crazy over this. Quite frankly I am surprised that the six guys are still alive. Things happen. “He fell down some stairs”, “He committed suicide”, “He got an ‘illness’ and died”. This happens all the time. They are simply tortured to death in the worst possible way. One cop died in the rioting too. The six should be charged with his death too. In India if you cause trouble for the police, who usually just drive around looking for baksheesh, and they have to do any real ‘work’ you’re going to ‘feel’ it. And I am sure these six men are in a lot of pain right now. I’ll see what the paper’s say tomorrow.

Anyway I wanted to go to Deutsche Motoren just to meet the guys. They had a seven series BMW in the showroom. Which was next to the Range Rover showroom and the Rolls Royce show room. This is when I met the Motorrad Manager and the service walla. I always make a short story long. Because of the rioting the cops had half the city closed so it took me three hours to get there. I left at 1:30. It was just getting dark when I arrived. It was dark when they were closing. I can’t drive back to Karol Bagh. Its 25km’s of gridlock traffic. I was going to get a hotel when the sales manager said he lives near CP which is near Karol Bagh. He told me that he would give me a ride in his car. Thinking that the bike needs to come back here, why don’t I just leave it? That’s what I did. It took us four hours to drive 25km’s. I crashed Electra up behind Adam’s lake once and had to walk 23km’s out. It took me four hours. I could have walked back to Karol Bagh in the time same time it took us to drive. Traffic jam!!!??? We talked all the way so it made the trip seem quicker. He’s a great guy. I forget his name but I told him my story. I don’t know if he believed it or not. Let’s face it; it’s so far out there it’s hard for people to wrap their heads around it. I got back to the hotel at midnight.

Yesterday I wanted to buy an India pin for my jacket. Like the kind the president of the US and A wears. I was told to go down to CP [Connaught Place]. I took the Metro. Manish gave me his metro pass. It’s only three stops away from Karol Bagh. The CP metro station was teeming with riot police and cops. I was only allowed to go out one exit. I couldn’t find a pin in CP but there is a huge under ground market under CP. I went there and bought two books. One title is India [mostly pictures] and another title is ‘The monk who sold his Ferrari’. The guy who drove me from Deutche Motoren told me about it. I have heard of it before and am sure I have a copy. Annie, bless her heart, probably bought it for me and its at home. I found the pins they where Rs100 each. I bought 15. I gave one to all my friends at the travel agency and will bring so back for some people back home. I am going to have to buy more.

CP has to lowest of the low in India. I saw some guy smoking black tar heroin/opium. I didn’t ask which. From my experience it was heroin. Then there are so many baksheesh wallas. And when I ask them if they are a baksheesh walla they pretend not to know what baksheesh is!!! Ha ha ha. I even had some guy tell me that he talked to me yesterday. Well unless he was on Suukey driving to BMW and driving back in to Delhi with us. I told him this but he insisted. I walked way. I love talking to people but these types, I have no time for.

I went over to the Odisha State Emporium and bought Annie and 5’ stone carving of Buddha and 5’ stone carving of Saraswatee for myself. I wanted Vishnu but they didn’t have him/her. She is a part of the big three. "Saraswati", "Lakshmi" and "Parvati". All the three help "Brahma", "Vishnu" and "Shiva" in the creation, maintenance and destruction of the Universe. Thus Saraswatee is Braham’s ‘wife’, Lakshmi is Vishnu’s ‘wife’ and Pravati in Shiva’s ‘wife’. It will look good in my back yard.

I also bought a brass bell that has the inscription of the Gayatri Mantra, an exquisite bust of Buddha, a brass conch shell and a large brass Krishna. I have never seen the workmanship like that of Krishna. It’s about 2’ high.

I am going to the airport to meet Cara now! Can’t wait!!

December 28, 2012

I got absolutely nothing done today. I though Cara was arriving last night so I hired a car a driver to pick me up at 11:00pm as her flight arrives at midnight and it takes an hour to get to the airport.

The arrival board said the flight was 24 minutes last. No problem. It was so cold. I thought I wasn’t allowed in the airport. Well I am. Rs.80 and a passport. I waited and waited. She’s flying first class so she should have been one of the first off the plane. Other flights were landing. I started to as people which flight they arrived on. Some where complete pricks. Maybe they didn’t speak English. After about three hours There where people arriving of off flights that landed well after hers. What the fuck! She must be having problems with her helmet and riding gear. I have never has this sort of problem. Fuck it. I have to go. It’s now 3:00am and it’s an hour back to the hotel. She’s a ‘big’ girl she’ll figure it out.

I got back to the hotel to check her itinerary. She left Canada on the 27th and arrives in India on the 28th. Fuck am I stupid.

I slept until about 1:00pm. What a waste of a cold day.

December 31, 2012

Today we got up late and we are out doing our thing by 12 noon.

We visited our friends over at the travel agency. Had chai. Then took the metro to CP (Connaught Place)

Security was kinda tight. The girl that was gang raped and sent to Singapore for treatment died on the plane.

And now it’s murder. And the city wants blood. So we walked around CP for a while. Everybody knows me and not bother us. All the touts know me and don’t even bother me anymore. We had breakfast at the hotel. Chowmein, a soup of some sort, 2 lassie, which I drank and 4 rotie. I took Cara to the state Emporium where I purchased the statues for Annie myself. And the several brass pieces. I also bought Annie a bell that has the mantra in Sanskrit written around it. It’s beautiful. I’m sure she will enjoy it. Then we were walking back to CP and met the riot squad in full affect. The riot police were nice and the crowd was fairly subdued but there were lots of chanting and lots of anger. They were all calling for the castration of these 6 men who gang raped this girl for 2 hours on a bus and assaulted her with a rod that destroyed her insides. And as mentioned before, she died. India wants blood and swift action. Namely castration, cutting of arms and legs and then hanging. The country is livid.

The maximum term for rapists is 10 years. People want the death penalty. I gave an interview consisting of 11 points of what should happen to rapists.

We were afraid that things might get out of hand. There were lots of riot police; I talked to the commander of the police force, and he said everything is calm now. There is no more anger, just sorrow and people wanting change. And change now! Not one month, not six months, not one year. But now!! These men must die for the crimes they have committed. It is the most vile crime a human can commit against another. It brought me to tears that somebody can do this to another human being. I joined in on the chanting but then left quickly after. I took many pictures. Everyone I spoke to (all the men) if the six men were there, they’d be cut to pieces; street justice. I might have joined in the cutting of these men. The police would’ve done nothing but watch.

After we went to CP, I had a very expensive dinner at a nice restaurant.

We took a rickshaw back to Karol Bagh. I met Manish and Mr. Singh and wished everyone a Happy New year. I don’t know what’s gonna be open tomorrow, maybe nothing.

I purchased a 1973 Candy apple red fully restored Vestpa. I’m only giving a deposit. And when the bike arrives in Canada, I wire him the rest of the money. He is a nice man. He is a Sikh man, he does not wear a turban and he shaves. He is a modern Sikh; his wife is from Nagaland and Christian. The Christian military that came to that area years ago, converted the tribal people in the area into Christianity. His family celebrates Xmas. He is very open with religion. His name is Girish. I cut my arm, the blood is red. He cuts his arm, the blood is red. Christian man cuts his arm the blood is read. The Muslim man cuts his arm, the blood is red. We are all the same.

The highest power, Guru, Om, Allah, Buddha God; the same. It’s only a name

There is only one God. He told me that we close our eyes and asked me who am I? Who is he? Who is anybody? Without sight, no one knows who is who.

All in all, it was a good day. Glad to be with Cara. It makes traveling easier because Cara looks really western and the touts flock to her. I turn around and say “Jow, meh bibi.” And they are all apologetic. I explain, that if you need to ask something, you ask me. Very similar to Matta in India.

Tomorrow, we are on half day tour. I’m getting sick of seeing the same sights over and over and over again. I really can’t wait to get out Delhi.

Site seeing tomorrow, walking, window shopping. On Jan 3rd, we go to Mansh’s house for dinner. I’m sure he lives in modest house and we will apologetic at the modesty. I have been in India long enough now to realize this is not the west. Manish’s house will be modest. The special thing for us is to get to meet his mother. I am sure the food will be more than is enough to eat. It is the Indian way.

On the 2nd, we have to mail home about 40 kg of clothes, books, tools, and other items that are not necessary. I must have 15kg of books. When I return to Canada, I’m building a custom book case in my den. It will be oak. I am suspect, it will be plus USD $10,000. But it is my only hobby other than motorcycles. When I pass, I want the books to go to a library and the motorcycles to Trev Deeley. All the artifacts can be donated to a museum. I want my cats to taken care of at no expense until the day they pass. And their ashes spread in my/their back yard.

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