We've completed the 185 mile Cabot Trail through the highlands of the top of Cape Breton. (Trail is a decription of only the "off the trail roads", most of the roads were in good repair or in the process of being resurfaced. White Point was a neat little fishing village protected by a small cove. There we purchased lobster from one of the fishers on the wharf. He was packing mackerel in ice for transport, and entertained us by throwing the small and injured fish to the seagulls and heron that flew around the wharf. In one gulp the fish disappears. The Atlantic coastline was rugged and beautiful. In Neils Harbor we stopped at the ocean to cook one of the lobsters for lunch. The waves were beating the shore and we were most contented with the lunch and the setting. Green Cove offered views of pink marble in the gneiss rock. The panels described the formation process in which cracks formed in the rock and the pink marble flowed into the dykes. It went on to say that "some dykes are older than others". Yeah, well. This was a very pretty cove. Towns, villages and communities are described by the services they offer. We've discovered that a fully serviced community at minimum has one gas pump, a convenience store with food, often connected to the gas pump, an ATM machine, and a cafe or some kind of take out. Helen has stood in one of those little stores on more than one occasion asking, "is there a larger food store in town?" only to be stared at and told "NO". A dot on the map and a name may only mean 5-10 buildings and little more. A wharf always means piles and piles of lobster traps, since the season is now over. Cape Smokey was a climb for Tortuga, but well worth it. The vista was great and like the name it was hazy, reminding us abit of the Smokies. From there we left the Atlantic coast and headed to Bras d'Or Lake(meaning arms of gold) and Baddeck. We will begin the trail around this lake tomorrow. For now we are in an older campgrounds clearly designed before larger RVs and Fifth wheels were so prevelant. Watching all the gyrations people are going through to level their vehicles can be quite entertaining. I suppose we entertained people when we leveled too. One man took two hours to level an 8 foot pop-up. Quite meticulous, perhaps obssessive, but he was happy. Ignoring the leveling issue, it is a great campground with many services, including WiFi.