20,000 leagues under the sky, 2004- travel blog


Sunset over fjord


Walls at night

In the mists

Bright dawn

Cruise ship

Mini church

The bus actually took us through Croatian and Montenegrin immigration and customs and dropped us in the first town, Herceg Novi. I'm really glad I took the effort to go and pre-book the direct bus to Montenegro. At the Herceg Novi bus station I asked if the bus to Kotor would take Croatian Kuna but was told that it wouldn't. Unfortunately there was no ATM or currency exchange at the station so I had to hike down a steep hill to the town centre to find an ATM and get some Euro and then back up that same steep hill to just catch the Kotor bus just before it left. It felt strange driving through Montenegro, visually, possibly the most economically backward country so far on this trip with a pocket full of Euros. I guess Montenegro, the world's newest independent state, uses the Euro but isn't actually part of the Euro mechanism, i.e. it has to buy them in and can't print its own.

And so another spectacular bus journey, around the fjords of Montenegro under the shadow of spectacular cliffs and mountains to Kotor. I admit that a week ago I hadn't even heard of kotor but now that I'm here, I don't think that I'll forget it, if Dubrovnik's walled city was impressive this is unbelievable, the walls surrounding this city are so sheer I can't see how they could ever be breached. Hopefully the photographs will speak for themselves. That's if the rain stops for long enough to take any!

I had a new experience in Kotor, random private accommodation, I found out that arriving in Kotor on a Saturday afternoon was not a good idea. The LP suggests a travel agent that can arrange rooms, what I didn't read was the small print, half day Saturday and closed Sunday. All of the agents were closed, I tried the cheapest hotel in town and rather than the 32 euro Lazy Planet said they wanted 75 euros minimum. I walked around for a while and considered getting the next bus further south to a town with a Hostel when someone stopped me in the street and asked if I wanted a room. I went to have a look and it was fine, a big room with a single bed and a sofa, sharing the family bathroom for only 10 euros per night. I hoped that the person in the black and white photo over the bed hadn't died in the room, I don't think I could cope with a ghost talking a foreign language. I think the bed had had a previous life as a trampoline in the state circus but I slept very well in it and didn't encounter any ghosts.

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