173 Days From Home travel blog

Mali Plaza (small beach) and the "old town" of Ulcinj

The Hotel Venetian Palace from around our room door, looking south throught...

Minaret and former bell tower

In old town, from the front steps of our hotel room, Ulcinj

View from the hotel room window, Ulcinj. Looking toward town and the...

Sunset over Ulcinj and our dinner table

Sun lowering over the Adriatic from the restaurant.

Velika Plaza, Ulcinj...looking down 12 km of soft, soft sand

Walking bridge over the small river mouth to get to the very...

Looking across the river mouth to the northern edge of the Velika...

St. Nikolai's church, in the olive grove and just across the street...

The modern mosaic of St. Nikolai up close

Looking through the olive trees to the northern walls of Ulcinj's fortifications

One of the many olive trees -- their trunks are amazing...

One of the many old and gnarly olive trees in the grove...

From the tower at the south gate, looking at Adem's restaurant patio...

Closer look at Adem and Shazi's restaurant

Across the bay from the old town, looking down at Mali Plaza...

Communist sculpture, erected in the 80's, "to the people".

From the inland side, Mali Plaza is in front and below

Detail of the happy stylized people

Looking across Ulcinj to the fortress with the Venetian Palace, and St....

Duane and Adem

There is still a small fleet of small fishing boats that leave...

Still fishing

Sunset from our balcony at Adem's rooms

Last rays of the sun over the point just north of Ulcinj

Ulcinj and Mali Plaza from the ramparts by the Venetian Palace

Looking down on the south gate to old town and the fortifications,and...

West entrance to the fortifications -- down directly to the sea --...

View from our balcony at Adem's

Biff's very short hair, not really falling into the alcohol and pill...

Local wine -- had to drink it from rinsed out breezer bottles...

That's Albania in the distance. South from Ulcinj by about 20 km...

Happy boots on the railing of our balcony

Adem and Shazi's restaurant patio from just in front of the Venetian...

The North Gate and tower

Old Ulcinj from the former clay tennis courts across the bay

From the patio above, Shazi tossed a beer down to one of...

South along the coast line toward Velika Plaza (just around the last...

Mali Plaza from the big sculpture above town

More of the palaces and fortress walls of old town, with the...

On our walk around "new Ulcinj", looking down a street toward the...

Tractor for sale in Ulcinj

View over Ulcinj to the river delta and Albania in the south...those...

Just outside of Ulcinj we found ourselves in BC again!! Little mountain...

Another view of Ulcinj's fortress and some of the new town. St....

More tractors in Ulcinj

The Orthodox cemetery across from St. Nikolai's and just beside the North...

Solar panels on a house just being built

Restaurant Teuta (Adem and Shazi's) with Venetian Palace to the right behind

Mali Plaza and some of the stairs from the south gate and...

The South Gate

Full moon rising over Albania and the Adriatic


Old town, small beach, big beach. Cafes with loud music and good coffee. Friendly people and sheisters. It's all here in the not so large town of Ulcinj.

The old town is being rebuilt still since the earthquake in 1979. Unesco gave money to the town for a couple of the buildings in particular to be fixed up and they (The Palato Veneto being one) are now hotels, restaurants and conference centres. The general population who live on the hill are slower in rebuilding, but are getting it done.

The views over the Adriatic are, of course, beautiful, stunning, gorgeous. Pick your adjectives, they all fit. The restaurants tend to be situated on the periphery so you are either looking over the Mali Plaza (small beach) and town below, or over the Adriatic and the sunset.

We have dined on both sides now (hmmm, feels like a song...) and found the food good on both sides, but the people more honest overlooking town and the small beach.

We have walked to Velika Plaza (long beach, 12km of fine, fine sand) and frolicked in the waters of the Adriatic. The waves come in constantly at this beach. There is nothing between you and Italy here, so the water is not calm, like on Lumbarda, but is still quite warm and very clean.

Unlike the waters around BC that we've been in, this is just salt water. There is no lingering taste of kelp and seaweed as there is, indeed, no kelp or seaweed. Just endless sand. You can walk out through the water for quite a distance and still only be up to your mid-calf in water. The waves get a little higher and start getting your chest or back, but when they recede, the water is shallow.

We spent about an hour at the beach, pretty much our limit for sunbathing, and headed back to town. Need to go have a shower now and rinse the salt off our skin!

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