Old town, small beach, big beach. Cafes with loud music and good coffee. Friendly people and sheisters. It's all here in the not so large town of Ulcinj.
The old town is being rebuilt still since the earthquake in 1979. Unesco gave money to the town for a couple of the buildings in particular to be fixed up and they (The Palato Veneto being one) are now hotels, restaurants and conference centres. The general population who live on the hill are slower in rebuilding, but are getting it done.
The views over the Adriatic are, of course, beautiful, stunning, gorgeous. Pick your adjectives, they all fit. The restaurants tend to be situated on the periphery so you are either looking over the Mali Plaza (small beach) and town below, or over the Adriatic and the sunset.
We have dined on both sides now (hmmm, feels like a song...) and found the food good on both sides, but the people more honest overlooking town and the small beach.
We have walked to Velika Plaza (long beach, 12km of fine, fine sand) and frolicked in the waters of the Adriatic. The waves come in constantly at this beach. There is nothing between you and Italy here, so the water is not calm, like on Lumbarda, but is still quite warm and very clean.
Unlike the waters around BC that we've been in, this is just salt water. There is no lingering taste of kelp and seaweed as there is, indeed, no kelp or seaweed. Just endless sand. You can walk out through the water for quite a distance and still only be up to your mid-calf in water. The waves get a little higher and start getting your chest or back, but when they recede, the water is shallow.
We spent about an hour at the beach, pretty much our limit for sunbathing, and headed back to town. Need to go have a shower now and rinse the salt off our skin!