9 måneder i Asia - 2007 travel blog

Living conditions just outside Keninggau

The drivers son is curious as to who these foreigners are, and...

Views from the car

There used to be a tourist camp here, but that was 15-20...

The building is old and gives a scary first impression

But with the right company, it seems more welcoming!

The only mattresses left after the place shut down ages ago is...

- Hammocks with build-in mosquito nets. Another useful travel gadget!

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This used to be the Iniana Jones bridge that the kids would...

Lokal shop and meeting point.. pretty silent and uneventfull even during school...

The nephew of the local chief took us on a four hour...

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Sepulut

Sepulut 2


Sepulut

For treffende beskrivelse av hvordan vi kom oss til Sepulut, maa jeg ty til Jo:

"Alarm clock mistakenly set an hour fast and we find ourselves staring up at our favourite restaurant wondering why they arent open to serve us breakfast. But its only 6am ... not 7am! We know the landcruisers for the interior leave very early and have heard that they might leave from outside the bank so thats a good starting place. The only thing open is a 24 hour diner which seconds as a bus stop so there we park. Inside

a man sits finshing his breakfast and asks us where we are going. He offers us a ride to a town far away for an extremely cheap price but its in completely the opposite direction for us and so we consider it for a second but Frode puts it perfectly, "If we are going to let fate decide where we go, we may as well eat first." and so we order breakfast instead.

This is living at the right pace.

By 8am we've learned that the 3 big land cruisers parked outside the restaurant are indeed going where we want them to, but for a reason unexplainable, they cant take us. Perhaps government restrictions or requests from village chiefs not to have foreigners .... who knows? But they say there's a bus around 9am from town centre that should be able to do it. So we order another coffee. And I realize that the art of waiting does involve a complete lack of concern with getting to where you are going at

any given time and instead becomes an enjoyable morning at a Malaysian Kedai Kopi.

9.30am we meet a man who is going to Sapulut and he knows of a rest house where foreigners can stay. The drive is a 3 hour ride with frequent business stops for the driver and one that leaves our hearts in our laps as we question the sense of our decision to attempt "the interior" but here we are and here we will stay. We have been driving through a beautiful valley of trees and we pull up to a small house where the driver motions that this is our stop and he will pick us up tomorrow. Standing on the road looking up at our night's accomodations and a slight gulp and in we go. The house, an old tourist activity center, has been standing deserted for some time. Walls full of holes. A pair of old bunk beds with nicely blackened mattresses. No electricity. An extrememly murky outhouse. My boyfriend, being the wonderful gadget obsessed fore-thinker he is, has come prepared with a pair of hammocks complete with attached mosquito nets (I kid you not) and these we attach to the frame of the top bunk so that the hammock can hang within.".

Vi dro avgaarde med en sjaafoer som ikke kunne engelsk, med en formening om at det skulle vaere et overnattingssted i Sepulut. Underveis spinner han plutselig rundt og haster i motsatt retning ved syn av en politikontroll langs veien. Usikker paa hva dette handler om befinner vi oss paa en sidevei vel vitende om at politiet kastet seg paa hjul. Den tradisjonelle finn en sidevei ute av syne fra hovedveien saa ut til aa virke, saa etter 2- minutter er vi tilbake paa hovedveien med forklaringen: Vaar venn mangler foererkort.

Her er utdrag fra min dagbok i kveldingen etter en lang dag i Sepulut:

"Naar eventyret realiseres: Paa en uke har ulike innfall, paafunn og mer eller mindre ulogiske valg til slutt gjort det tvingende noedvendig aa ty til bruk av hengekoeyer som noedloesning for overnatting. Hengekoeyen er solid forankret i en rosa staalramme koeyseng. Sengen staar i sin tur i en heller falleferdig roenne som var bebodd av turister den gang Sepulut var et poppulaert turistmaal. I foelge nevoeen til den lokale hoevdingen sluttet folk aa komme 15-20 aar siden, og bygget ble forlatt. Madrassen som ble igjen er like forfalne og mugne som resten av bygget. Hengekoeye med innlagt myggnett viste seg derfor endelig som en innvestering! Jeg hadde nok strender og pur jungel i tankene naar jeg kjoepte hengekoeyene i Oslo, men fra innsiden av nettet kan jeg hoere elven, sirissene, fuglene, tilfeldige slaglyder i bygningen og en hel jungel som omslutter oss."

Hoeydepunkt for dagen var definnitivt en sjelden opplevelse til aa bli kjent med en innfoedt, som viste seg aa vaere nevoeen til landsbyhoevdingen (Andrew). Vi fryktet kort tid etter ankomst at vi ikke ville moete noen, fordi det ikke er noen naturlige samlingspunkt - bare hus i en fjellside. Men vi tok heldigvis feil. Andrew tilboed seg aa ta oss en tur paa puben, noe som ble en 4 timers tur paa en sneglete vei gjennom jungelen. Underveis ble vi innlemmet i landsbylivet, og alt fra lokale konflikter til vaerdensproblemer ble diskutert og loest paa stedet!



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