Lv. Karonga at 11:30.
Karonga has tons of bike taxis as well as bikes in general. Bon & Mari went to Karonga Cultural & Museum Center - www.palaeo.net/cmck
Museum: Dinosaurs to Democracy, prehistory 240 million yrs ago to present. Karonga District is a rich geological and palaeontological region. Oldest fossils incl. tree stumps 250 million yrs old & the Malawisaurus fossil skeleton 140-65 million yrs ago. Also found near here are the remains of Homo rudolfensis, a 2.5 million yr old man, the earliest evidence of genus Homo, as well as pre-human remains of Paranthropus boisei or Malema man,m also 2.5 million yrs. ago. Modern history is also traced from 1600 ad on, w/ evidence of the Ngonde people and following the migrations and incursions into the area by other tribes and westerners(German & British).
The flat valley floor has lots of agriculture plus many huge, giant baobob trees 8'+ in diameter. The highway parallels Lake Malawi, people dry corn on the shoulder pavement...this is corn & cotton growing country. At every stop passengers buy all kinds of stuff thru the windows - bus waits 10 min+ for them to finish their transactions for mats, food, etc. Bon said "This isn't a bus, it's a rolling shopping cart!" Arr. in Chitimba 1:30 and were immed. invited to Elijiahs restaurant - a Rastifarian, very nice fellow - Mari gave him her Haile Selassie necklace we had given her for her B'day, he was ecstatic! Later he showed us where to wait for transpart up to Livingstonia and Dr. Laws Stone House(a Natl Monument). At 3:30 a pickup truck stopped and 8-9 of us piled into the half ton Toyota, taking off up the rugged switchback road 15 km. The Stone House is a museum itself, huge 14' ceilinged rooms, grand old house. Gracie & Martha run the place, very nice older ladies.
In the museum we read that a Ghana Rev. Aggrey gave a sermon in 1924 here in which he used the analogy of the black and white keys on the piano for the races living together in harmony! (Ebony & Ivory song was NOT an original invention by Paul & Stevie)
Walked the town...imagining the early missionary days and it's impact, ending slavery trade to the Arabs, bringing 1 electricity to Malawi, educating many of its first leaders, leaving a legacy of white Christian mores layered upon black tribal animism. Malawi is 75% Christian 20% Muslim.