|Taking the road from Arusha to Dar es Salaam we stop in Mombo and fight with the overcharging taxi drivers to be allowed to get on the local bus up the winding road to Lushoto. Just as the book describes, it feels like an Indian hill town. After the pointless uber luxury of safari we are craving "real Africa" and find a basic hotel just 500m from the central market. Business has not been good in Lushoto and the young lads actually fight to take us to find a hotel and to be hired as our guide the next day. One cocky lad takes the brochure of the other and rips it up right in front of us with defiance. When we do decide to hire a guide for a few hours to show us the way up to the viewpoint we get to hear town gossip and it seems everyone is talking about this incident with the "mzungu" (foreigner). Our Swahili is starting to improve a little and most interactions with the locals begin with a kind of Swahili test, otherwise known as a greeting. It goes: Jambo! Si Jambo! Habari? Nzuri! Karibu! Asante! It means: Hi, how are you, welcome (read: please come into my shop) thankyou .... as we walk right past the shop. We celebrate being back in Africa by eating dinner for a total sum of $2, consisting of: a huge plate of coconut flavoured rice with meat on sticks, cabbage and very sweet milk tea. We show off our appalling skills at pool at a local pool hall and join some nice girls at a make shift street disco. The girls, we later find out, are 12-14 years old and they guess our age to be around 17, at which point we stop encouraging so much beer.