Shearwin's in Europe 2015 travel blog

Locronan - village centre

Locronan - sample of the many aged celtic buildings

Locronan - St Ronan's Church

Porn Croix Church- small village church

Porn Croix Church - beautiful but derelict

Baie des Trespasses, near Point du raz

Fishing Fleet returns to Port du Guilvinec

Not a pretty fish

Fish displayed to buyers


We breakfasted earlier this morning and by ourselves. Annie offered us visit options which we planned around and departed the B&B at 1000hrs.

Our first leg was a 23km drive north to Locronan, a classic 17/18th century town built from local granite. This early Celtic town has a 2000 year old history and has retained the majority of its buildings in their original style. It is officially listed as one of France's most beautiful towns and from our perspective it is well deserved. We walked the streets ( limited to local vehicles only ) and spent sometime exploring the impressive Saint Ronan's church and the numerous streets and alleyways.

We next stopped at the small village of Port Croix 25 km west of Loconan. In doing so we drove the large narrow streeted town of Douarnenez, on the coast. This commercial fishing town offered very little appeal and was a brief diversion. Port Croix which isn't a port was a sleepy town with a church and area of historic homes that had some attraction. We stopped and explored the two decaying, poorly funded churches of which one was appealing as it was one of few with a wooden barrel vaulted ceiling and many of the church's artefacts were original in design.

It was a short drive of 6km to Audierne, another coastline village with estuary. First impressions did not excite but we drove the foreshore area to an elevated high point with views of the estuaries entrance. There were also a number of attractive restaurants on the causeway which appeared to be well patronaged - it was also lunchtime.

Once again we did not stop but set off for Point Du Van and Pointe Du Vaz, the two most westerly points of the region at another 18kms. We felt we were chasing ground at this stage and only reached the area Baie des Trepassers, a beautifully white and flat beach area with waves that would have excited any surfer. The area was marked by two prominent white painted hotels and car parks.

We decided at this point to to drive directly to Loctudy 68kms away to see the Manoir de Kerazan, an impressively large manor bequeathed by the Astors. Built between 16&18th centuries it offered a lovely interior and an English styled garden. The drive was torturous and made us realise how tiring it is to drive any distance anywhere off the main carriageways in this part of the world. GeePS was forever calling "at the next round about - etc" and the many concealed intersections on the very many narrow winding roads made for an exhaustive experience. As can be imagined diary, when we arrived at 1430hrs, the Manoir was closed on Mondays - every other day after 1400 hrs.

Our final objective of the day was to visit the fishing town at Port Du Guilvinec. At 1630hrs all the town's fishing fleet return to the large european accredited fishery to deliver and sell their catch. The Haliotika tour we undertook included a viewing of the fishing boats returning to wharf, the unloading of the catch and their factory preparation for auction and the auction process itself. We then completed the museum exhibit tracing the life of the deep sea and small boat fishermen, the processing of the catch to retail sale and the economics of the industry. Overall a very interesting and well presented tour and display that lasted 2 hours - pity the tour was in French, however the exhibit with english audio guide compensated in part .

Following the tour we elected to have a seafood dinner in a restaurant near the wharf - enough has already been said of this meal (although I have said nothing); it was the worst meal ever, especially the super soggy chips. In hindsight I think the cook had it in for the British especially after we had ordered "fish and chips with a salad" and he was determined to serve it classical Brit style.

Our return trip was quick and we were back at the B&B, annoyed and very tired by 2030hrs - bring on tomorrow!

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