20,000 leagues under the sky, 2004- travel blog

The non-ferry option

Last room in town

But a great view

Burbaque smile

With her brother

Coast road

High tide


Main road


The ferry

Low tide (get it?)


The birds

Waiting for the ferry

Paradise? Possibly. Azure water, golden sand, palm trees, bouganvillea, magnolia trees, tropical birds, ospreys, eagles? Yes! Running water, electricity, pavements? No. Mosquitos? No, for West Africa that makes it paradise.

The ferry into Bubaque arrived at sunset, this seems to be the arrival time for every transport in Africa. By the time we managed to get off the heavily loaded boat via the single-file gangplank it was totally dark. There is no electricity on the island and with no moon you couldn't see your hand in front of your face. The port area was chaos with every resident of the island turning up for the ferry's arrival. After bustling our way away from the port we didn't really have a clue how to find a place to stay, all the kids obviously wanted to help. We were told that one of the kids was the son of one of the hotel owners so we followed him but before we got to his hotel someone told him that it was now full so we diverted to another which was also full when we got there. The next one was too expensive for me never mind Son and Kerry. I looked in the book and suggested another one further away and the kids led us there where they had one room free but it only had one bed. After a bit of negotiating and suggestions we managed to get an extra matress and a bed with no matress put into the room and finally had our acommodation sorted. Naturally I tipped the lad quit well for sticking with us until we were sorted out.

With the ferry returning on Sunday afternoon we only had one full day on the island and we spent most of this at the small beach at the north of the island. The departure of the ferry on sunday was almost as chaotic but at least was in daylight and a party atmosphere saw off the boat for another week.

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