|Feeling beter from malaria, we cross into Zambia and meet a young Zambian man who has been in Malawi doing some gospel singing. He shows us his gospel CD that he has made and helps us pick the best bus company to take and to find the bank. The next bus to Lusaka leaves at 5.30am so we are one night on the border town, in Chipata. The woman at the motel next to the bus station tells us that we must not sleep with the light on in our room (although not sure why we might want to...) otherwise we risk a break-in. The door handle to our door has been part way unscrewed already so we heed her warning and jam the door shut from the inside as an extra precaution. 5.30am and our gospel friend has slept on the bus and awaits us. He tells us that this is the best bus because its direct and leaves on time. Close to departure time a preacher comes on board and delivers a very long and loud sermon; his voice sometimes soft and sweet and then suddenly intense and threatening. At the end he says Amen but must say it again to get the bus congregation to repeat his Amen. Around 6am we pull out and then pull right back into the bus station again .... something is wrong with the bus. Around 7.30am we get loaded up onto another bus which is already quite full and not direct. We make it eventually to Lusaka, feeling rotten and tired.