Today dawned with the shore cloaked in a heavy sea fog. Strolling around the grounds of the inn where I had spent the night, I noticed a delicate, green growth draped from the bare limbs of the pine and silver birch trees. It reminded me of the Spanish moss that grows in Florida, but this was more delicate ~ like pale green lace gently waving in the sea breeze.
After a hearty breakfast in the adjacent restaurant, I hit the road again and continued my drive up the shore road that skirts St. Margaret’s Bay. Leaving Indian Harbour I passed more little inlets with weary docks and fishing boats floating in the fog. As I neared the head of the bay the scenery changed from quaint to cosmopolitan. Fishing boats and old, weathered cottages gave way to sailboats and country club type communities with large, modern waterfront homes. Route 333 ended at the junction with Route 3 ~ the main shore road ~ and I continued southwest along the edge of the bay passing more small beach communities, the white sand beach at Queensland and the port town of Chester ~ whose sheltered harbor is a haven for sailboats and the host of numerous regattas during the summer.
Route 3 hugs the coast as it enters the picturesque village of Mahone Bay. Whether arriving by land or sea, travelers are welcomed by the sight of three stately churches that have looked over the waterfront since the late 1800s. Other historic homes and buildings have been restored or converted to shops, galleries and museums. There is also a pewter factory that offers tours, although I did not stop.
Continuing along Route 3 I arrive in Lunenburg ~ one of Nova Scotia’s most historic towns. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site by the United Nations. Many homes from the 1750s have been maintained and restored. Others date to the 1800s. The brightly painted homes feature architectural details like widow’s walks and “Lunenburg bumps” ~ a local interpretation of a 3-sided Scottish dormer that is perched over the front door. The narrow streets still adhere to the original town plat from 1754. Some of the streets leading down to the harbor are so steep that they feel almost 100% vertical. The working waterfront is lined with bright red warehouses and colorful heritage homes that create a cheerful patchwork quilt when viewed from across the harbor.
Leaving Lunenburg on Prospect Street I drive along the coast to Blue Rocks, a small fishing village that one brochure tagged “Lunenburg’s version of Peggy’s Cove”. I can’t say that I agree with that assessment, but Blue Rocks is
a quaint little spot and definitely worth seeing. The rocks at the end of the peninsula have a blue cast to them, and when viewed up close, look like they have petrified wood running through the middle. Beautiful! Also visible in the harbor are black basalt rocks ~ remnants of the volcanic lava that crept into the area when the continental plates collided eons ago.
Since I have run out of land, I return to Lunenburg and head out of town on Route 324 which will take me north to Indian Falls. This is a pretty little park with a roaring rush of water that cascades down over a series of rock falls. The area surrounding the park is a valley filled with balsam trees as far as the eye can see. With dusk approaching, and a three hour drive back to Five Islands ahead of me, it is time to hit the highway and make a beeline for home. Tomorrow is a work day.
To view more pictures from today’s adventure, visit my on-line web album