And at last to Rombuk Monastery (which I didn't visit) and Base Camp. Stunning views of Chongmalama, Sagamartha or even plain old Everest and the surrounding peaks and valleys. Unfortunately it has to be said that the whole area is a complete pig-sty and that's putting it mildly.
After having the honour of paying Y65 per person to enter the park and Y405 for the Land Cruiser which we then had to leave at the start of the climb and pay another Y80 each for a "non-polution" transport (a 4 litre, badly tuned Dodge Bus), I'd love to know where the money goes. It certainly isn't to educate the locals who dump everything in the river, it isn't to remove the rubbish which has obviously been accumulating for a very long time, and it most certainly isn't for the toilet facilities which defy description and are effectively no longer used which means that the whole area is one huge and expanding toilet.
One thing to note though is that Land Cruisers carrying Chinese nationals obviously don't polute as they don't get forced to change to the Non-polution transport! With 1.3 billion Chinese, we could stop all car pollution by putting one in every car in the world, they never thought of that at Kyoto.
We stayed here for 3 nights to allow for the acclimatisation which was a good idea as most people (especially those coming from Nepal), turned up for one night, felt like death, took a few photographs and left again. By the last day I was smoking normally and climbing up small hills with relative ease.