Dec 19 Left on time and arrived at about noon:30 in Kumasi...taxi took us to Presbyterian Guesthouse, chkd in, ate and headed to train station where we had hoped to hop a train for onward travel. Found it was not only closed - no trains- but the entire area was being engulfed by further expansion of the Kejetia Market, the largest market in W. Africa!!! We only skirted the edge of the market being a bit concerned about pick pockets(its very tight alleys and huge #s of people make it ideal for such an enterprise). Walking to Natl Cultural Ctr featuring Ashanti history, Mari went in paying the exhorbitant fee but had a personal guide - she'll have to write about it!
Being lat in the day we headed for food - not found - and bus info. The STC aircon to Cape Coast & Takoradi were all booked until Monday so we sat in the station, waited out a downpour(1st rain in weeks we've seen), then a taxi to the Metro Mass Transit MMT station where we discovered buses leave(across from abandoned train station!) at 6 am and 2 pm but tickets are only avail 1st come 1st served from driver!
After much discussion - Mari wishing to stay, Bon & I to leave, and Jake on the fence- option to ck at bus stop at 6 am was decided upon...Bon & Mari went and discovered bus lvs at 8 or before if full...another discussion and vote went to go! Caught bus at 8 am to Cape Coast, actually left at 8:45 after filling completely at 2nd stop. Arr in Cape at about 1 pm it was sultry - another discussion and cooling period at Oasis Beer Garden(too $$$ to eat) and we headed down coast in taxi to Elmina and Nyansapow Hotel (a fellow we met later called it the Hollywood Hotel-we never knew since there was really no sign outfront, hmm!). Got the last room avail for $5 US each all in one room w/ a fan. Headed to the only place we could find to eat the Coconut Grove Bridge House(across from the castle) and a pricey dinner($6 US ea...we ate at a "fast food" place in Tamale for 20-60 cents ea)